Tacos El Rey

Berlin’s taco game just got a serious upgrade and, once again, it’s the crew behind El Oso at Markthalle Pfefferberg, the much acclaimed taqueria at Markthalle Pfefferberg, who is behind this project. The protagonists: Michael Heiden, Pablo Vasquez und Jesus García, essentially the people responsible for changing the Mexican food game in Germany. Pfefferberg has been out of commission since the summer of 2024 due to a rather dramatic flooding incident (expected re-opening in summer 2025), but instead of waiting idly, the team has been hard at work, putting the finishing touches on their second, more upscale restaurant in Kreuzberg —and let me tell you, this restaurant is looking to be at least as interesting as El Oso.

The space on Gräfestrasse (right next to Goldies) has been entirely reimagined. Think rough concrete walls, see-through tiles, light oak tables and bright red high stools that practically demand you to perch on them with a mezcal or michelada in hand. It’s fresh, modern, and mighty vibey and oozes cool Mexico City.

Let’s talk about the food. This you need to know before you eat here: El Rey doesn’t do the typical “three tacos per order” thing. Instead, each taco is sold individually, mainly because that’s the way you order tacos in Mexico. The whole “trifecta of tacos” is something that was invented in Europe to cater to local expectations. For the single taco serving, the size of the tacos has been increased and six euros will you a face-sized taco loaded with serious ingredients and flavor.

The star of this taco show are undoubtedly the insane tortillas. In a monstrous, logistical effort fresh, a-la-minute pressed tortillas are served to the customer. We’re talking about a process where single-origin corn is imported from Mexico, nixtamalized, milled into masa and presses fresh to order. The result is a unfathomably soft and delicious tortilla that seeks its counterpart in Germany.

The Ribeye Taco: Let’s start with the crown jewel. A thin slice of ribeye steak, seared quickly on a smoking hot griddle, served on a soft corn tortilla and topped with crispy, golden mini shoestring fries. Yes, fries. The added crunch and saltiness are game-changing, and if you’re feeling extra indulgent, get it with cheese.

The Green Chorizo Taco: Now, this is something special. The team picked up this idea in Mexico City—a rare take on chorizo made with a mix of herbs and nuts, giving it an almost pesto-like vibrancy. Fried on the griddle to perfection, it’s topped with braised onions and the salsa of your choice. You haven’t had anything like this before. I promise.

The Duck Carnitas Taco: Because why settle for pork when you can have duck? Slow-rendered in goose fat and then pan-fried to crispy, succulent bliss, this is a sophisticated, deeply flavorful take on a classic. Bold move, but it absolutely pays off.

The Vegan Mushroom Taco: Don’t sleep on this one. A rich, umami-packed mix of fried mushrooms and poblano peppers ina (made from cashews, no less), paired with roasted poblanos for a smoky depth. It’s like a Mexican mushroom stew wrapped in a tortilla. If you think vegan tacos can’t be indulgent, this one will prove you dead wrong.

Tacos are only half the story here—El Rey has a very strong beverage focus and offers a fantastic choice of possibilities to hydrate in the most intriguing way. The cocktail game is surprisingly strong and the Mexican twist on classics is highly entertaining. Do not miss the micheladas and cheladas, which are made from their equisite, custom-brewed Mexican lager. But also, don’t sleep on the Horchatas, the non-alcoholic beverage made with rice, water, cinnamon, and sugar. El Rey is not just a taco joint; it’s a place designed for long, boozy nights of tortilla-fueled joy.

So how good is El Rey, really? The combination of killer food, electric atmosphere, and a razor-sharp drinks program makes Taquería El Rey a must-visit for any serious food person in Berlin right now. Honestly, the biggest danger here isn’t a bad meal — it’s that people might not realize just how extraordinary these tacos are. No one is doing Mexican food on this level anywhere else in Germany, and frankly, even Europe might have to take a hard look in the mirror. Is this Germany’s best taquería? Absolutely. Europe’s best? Very possibly. El Rey isn’t just a thrilling addition to Berlin’s dining scene — it’s a new benchmark. And whether the buzz catches up to the brilliance remains to be seen, but one thing’s certain: El Rey is already playing in a league of its own.